"Alma de Viajante" (Traveller's Soul) in the Douro

A journey on the Presidential Train. By Filipe Morato

I believe that the historic trains of CP - Comboios de Portugal are relics that are too precious to be left gathering dust in a museum. Not that I have anything against places like the National Railway Museum - on the contrary, I know it well and love it - but I think it's fair to say that, if the conditions are right, these magnificent wagons belong on our country's railway lines.

So combining the Presidential Train and the Douro line in the same project immediately struck me as a wonderful combination, made even more special by the addition of Chef Chakall's knowledge and flavours. All in all, the conditions were right for an unforgettable gastronomic experience, on a sensory journey through the unique landscapes of the Douro Wine Region. In the official words, ‘an immersive experience on board a real museum on rails’. And that's what it is!

On the day of the journey, I arrived at São Bento station in downtown Porto well in advance. The Presidential Train was already waiting at platform 1, with smiling and impeccably uniformed staff outside. As soon as I got on the train, to the delicate sound of two violinists, I realised I was on a somewhat special means of transport. Inside, there was an atmosphere of history and refinement, and every detail transported me to another era. It was the harbinger of a memorable day.

Apart from the Douro landscapes, which I love so much - I have family in the Douro and I'm passionate about the Douro winegrowing villages, one of my favourite regions in the world - I can say that a good part of my time on the train was spent in the dining car. Chatting and eating. Chef Chakall took me on a gastronomic journey through Portuguese products, with re-intrepretations of delicacies such as francesinha, delicious kid rice (and I don't even like kid!), Mirandese beef tartar and, surprise of surprises, a chestnut and confit duck soup as tasty as the Taylor's wines I was able to sample throughout the journey. Nothing to fault, not least because it seemed a superhuman challenge to cook and plate everything that was served during the journey in the small kitchen of a moving historic train. It was marvellous.

Reference should also be made to the stop at Quinta de Vargellas, owned by Taylor’s, which joined the project to provide travellers with an excellent wine experience. And so I had the opportunity to visit a property with breathtaking views over the river, its winery and lagares, and I was also able to watch a delicious Vintage Port being opened by fire. Not least, I was able to taste some of the most emblematic wines produced there under the Taylor's signature.

Back on the train, and when it all seemed to be over, it occurred to me that, fortunately, there was still time to do it all again, in the opposite direction, and return to Porto. And that meant plenty of time to sample more delicacies created by chef Chakall and his guests. As far as I'm concerned, I have nothing to complain about: I ate very well throughout the trip, which is truly a high-level gastronomic experience, with the advantage of being on board a train with history travelling through UNESCO-listed landscapes. A unique journey, then. Everyone is invited.

See more details about the experience of travelling on the Presidential Train on the Alma de Viajante blog.

Here are some photos from Alma de Viajante's journey on the Presidential Train.